How tretinoin works
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Increases your skin’s cell turnover rate and promotes the skin regeneration process, stimulating cell growth and collagen production.
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Improves skin texture by reducing the appearance of fine lines and hyperpigmentation and supporting the normal structure of your skin
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Clears pores by shedding dead skin cells more rapidly
Possible tretinoin side effects
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Skin sensitivity, including increased sensitivity to the sun (that’s why it’s important to use tretinoin at night and wear sunscreen with SPF 30 during the day)
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Dry, flaking skin that may become red and irritated
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The temporary uptick in breakouts (aka the tretinoin purge)
Read further for some tips and tricks to combat some of the common side effects.
Getting started with tretinoin
Learning how to apply tretinoin begins with the right technique, which can ease side effects when you’re starting out. Wondering if you can use tretinoin every night? You can—but maybe not right away. Many people experience an adjustment period when starting tretinoin, so it’s best to start low and go slow. You should also temporarily stop using other potent active skin care ingredients (like benzoyl peroxide) until your skin adjusts. Here’s one way to ease into tretinoin:
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Weeks 1-2: Apply Monday, Wednesday, and Friday night
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Weeks 3-4: Apply every other night
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Weeks 5-6: Apply every night
This is just one possible timeline that might work for you, but everyone is unique, so reach out to your dermatology provider for recommendations that make sense for your unique skin.
How to apply tretinoin
If you follow these simple guidelines, you’re likely to have a smoother transition, minimizing tretinoin side effects. First, you just need the basics: cleanser, moisturizer, and SPF that are non-comedogenic (meaning they won’t clog pores).
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Cleanse. Moisten your face with lukewarm water. Apply cleanser using your fingertips. Rinse and pat dry with a soft cloth.
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Apply tretinoin cream at night to a fully dry face. Damp skin is more permeable (meaning it’ll absorb product more quickly), which isn’t necessarily a bad thing, but it can increase the intensity as your skin adjusts. Where you apply tretinoin depends on your target areas for the ingredient’s anti-aging and acne-fighting benefits. Generally, it’s on the face and neck.
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Moisturize. Wait a few minutes for your tretinoin cream to absorb before applying a thin layer of moisturizer. If you want a moisturizer that will help keep dryness at bay, look for one with ingredients like petrolatum, dimethicone, and allantoin. These help hydrate and seal in moisture.
Pro tip: If you’re still experiencing skin sensitivity after following this routine, use your moisturizer to dilute the tretinoin cream by applying your moisturizer before your cream. It won’t render tretinoin any less effective.
And remember, use tretinoin at night and a broad-spectrum SPF 30+ sunscreen in the morning.
How to deal with the tretinoin purge
When you begin tretinoin, you’re giving your skin a kickstart. And as this process starts clearing out your pores, you might see a temporary increase in pimples.
This is actually a sign that the tretinoin is working. These temporary breakouts are often called purging. There’s no sugar-coating it—breakouts are never fun. The idea of using a product that can actually cause breakouts might seem totally counterintuitive. But remember that acne won’t disappear overnight, no matter what treatment you choose. The short-term effects of tretinoin can lead to long-term payoffs—you just need to stick with it.
How to deal with dryness and flaking
If you’re experiencing particularly dry skin, try plain aquaphor. This non-comedogenic occlusive moisturizer creates a protective barrier around your skin that seals in hydration. Pro tip: apply aquaphor around sensitive areas like nostrils and lips before applying tretinoin to help protect them.
Tretinoin and sun sensitivity
Protect your skin from the sun, especially when using a product like tretinoin. Its exfoliating properties cause your skin to shed dead skin cells—which is good, but new skin cells can be more sensitive to UV ray damage.
What is azelaic acid?
Azelaic acid is a topical ingredient used to treat acne, rosacea, and hyperpigmentation. It’s a naturally occurring acid but is synthetically formulated for its use in skincare. It works by blocking tyrosinase, an enzyme necessary for producing melanin (which gives skin, hair, and eyes their color). It’s also an anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and anti-keratinizing ingredient, making it effective in treating and helping to prevent clogged pores.
Combining azelaic acid and tretinoin
Combine tretinoin and azelaic acid for better results
Pairing these two ingredients can give better results—tretinoin may enhance the effects of azelaic acid when treating hyperpigmentation (such as melasma). Together they help with the treatment of acne, hyperpigmentation, and certain anti-aging concerns.
Patience and persistence
Better skin won't happen overnight. Think of your skincare routine like exercise: you’re building your skin’s strength every day. Some days will be easier than others, and there’s no quick fix. But if something isn’t working for you, don't hesitate to reach out.
